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THE ANCHOR
Development story
Development story
Beginning of the acidic age
The release of Spiera in 2006 significantly altered reduction in the acidic area, which was almost exclusively thioglycolic acid.At the same time, “glyceryl monothioglycolate (hereinafter as GMT)” has been reviewed and commercialized.These two reducing agents generated a stir in the field of reducing agents, which used to be mainly alkaline.Reduction in the acidic region that was thought to be impractical due to the rate-controlling of the reduction itself has been greatly advanced to a familiar existence that does not require special technology.We launched “ANCES” in 2010 that used Spiera and GMT as reduction agents.We decided to go on to a reduction in the acidic region, which can still be considered an undeveloped area.
ANCES Product page
From Acid Heat Treatment
to acid heat correction
Around 2015, the technology called “acidic heat treatment” was born as an approach to the area of acidic heat.The acid known as glyoxylic acid played an important role in the initial acid heat treatment.This glyoxylic acid can produce a natural and beautiful shine.Moreover, unruly wavy hair “stretches to a certain extent.”However, this product had many troubles because the establishment of proper information and usage of acid heat treatment were delayed.The cause of the trouble was the feature of acid heat treatment (glyoxylic acid), which is said to stretch the hair to some extent.The way of thinking which is only natural for hairdressers as well is, “We want to straighten hair while keeping this gloss.”And then, many other troubles such as hair damage have been reported. These troubles were caused by treatments outside the medicinal solution’s territory because of the feeling that hairdressers wanted to “stretch hair a little longer.”Since that time, the correct understanding of acid heat treatment has progressed, and such troubles have decreased.However, even though some troubles decreased, we thought that the term “acid heat treatment” may have caused some confusion, such as “hair would not be damaged because this is a treatment.” So, we decided to use the term “acid heat correction” to describe this technique.In this way, “Suppress” was launched in 2018 by consolidating and establishing our “acid heat correction” technology.
SUPPRESS Product page
https://orange-cosme.com/en/product/product-support/newsuppress/
We want to stretch hair while
retaining the gloss of acid heat.
“If hairdressers would like to stretch hair with acid heat, then let’s make an acid heat that can stretch it!” That’s why we focused on Levulinic acid.Although Levulinic acid has a feature that makes hair shiny, it can’t make unruly hair stretch enough.We incorporated this idea into the product because supplying a small amount of a reducing agent might be make up for this lack of stretching.Levlimit was launched in 2019 based on the concept that the main effect is acid heat correction, and that unruly wavy hair can stretch a little more.
LEVLIMIT Product page
https://orange-cosme.com/en/product/product-support/levlimit/
We want a glossy feeling as with
the LEVLIMIT and a stretch feeling
as with the ANCES.
LevLimit was able to bring the acid heat correction closer to the acid straight by adding a reducing agent to the acid heat correction.On the opposite side, we thought about whether or not we could add the effect of acid heat correction to the acid-straight.If there are beauty technicians who want straightening with acid-heat shine and texture, we want to meet their needs.Our mission is to constantly listen to the voices in the field and the market, gather needs, and predict and develop the next required products.The biggest bottleneck in this idea was what reducing agent to use.Spiera and GMT, which have firmly established themselves as acidic medicinal solutions, are reducing agents that can reduce pH.In addition, the presence of acid to produce the effect of acid heat will lower the pH more than expected, and there is a risk of color fading and damage.If this is true, which reducing agent should we use? We tried various reducing agents such as thioglycolic acid, cysteamine, thioglycerol, and cysteine. We went through trial and error, but the reducing agent that we were looking for could not be found.We were puzzled over a lot of problems.
Encounter with
thioglycolic acid cysteamine
Suddenly, what burst into prominence for us was thioglycolic acid cysteamine.Both thioglycolic acid and cysteamine are long-standing reducing agents.Cysteamine as a reducing agent caused excitement in the alkaline field as a neutral medicinal solution at a time when perms were alkaline in 1998.Cysteamine itself is alkaline.However, at that time, the existence of cysteamine alone was unstable, so it was neutralized with hydrochloric acid and sold as cysteamine hydrochloride as a neutral medicinal solution.20 years later, stable and highly precise cysteamine could be made by technical progress without the reaction of cysteamine and hydrochloric acid.Thus, this is the reducing agent that was born from the idea of neutralizing with thioglycolic acid and the alkali of cysteamine.”When we actually tried thioglycolic acid cysteamine, it was exactly the reducing agent we were looking for, one which we could use with confidence even if it existed with acid. Furthermore, adding heat increases gloss, which also agrees with the idea of acid heat correction that requires heat.By combining this reducing agent as the main ingredient with acid heat ingredients, we were able to create a unique luster and texture that has never been seen before.This is how “THE ANCHOR” was born.
“THE ANCHOR” is the cornerstone of
a medicinal solution in the acidic era.
Thioglycolic acid cysteamine reduces hair slowly.Therefore, this medicinal solution makes it possible to take time without worrying after applying it to the hair.Hairdressers can focus on their skills because they can think about the post-application period with their experience and sensibility.Slow reduction is also effective for aging hair.While remaining moist and glossy, the hair stands up softly, and the effect of straight or permed hair lasts for a long time.And even if a long time has passed since the treatment, the tips of the hair do not become dry.As we entered the year 2021, procedures in the acidic area rapidly gained interest due to their excellent results.As a result, Anses, which was developed as a pioneer in the acidic era, was further reevaluated.This was about the time when almost ten years had passed from its development.Today, there are four categories of medicinal solutions in the acidic region.These are acid straight, acid straight + acid, acid heat correction + reducing agent, and acid heat correction.The acidic region is still an unknown area.Many medicinal agents and treatment agents in the acidic region will be made in the future.Still we believe that ANCRE is one of the cornerstone chemicals.
THE ANCHOR’s product information
THE ANCHOR, a new acidic reducing agent, has a mild acidity and is a highly reducing
medicinal solution.In addition, the finish of acid heat is added to the normal medicinal solution,
and the potential is increased by heat.So this medicinal solution is active in scenes (digital scenes*) that may use heat, such as hot creep and irons.
* Digital scene: Scene where heat is supplied from the outside
About The Anchor
The ANCHOR is a medicinal solution using mild acidic thioglycolic acid cysteamine.
This is a new type of reducing agent that combines thioglycolic acid,
an organic acid reducing agent, with cysteamine,
an organic base reducing agent, in an ionic bond (salt bond).
Behind the birth
of The Anchor
Focusing on thioglycolic acid cysteamine.
Reducing agents have been in the shadows since they became a bit of a hot topic in 2020,
but when used prescriptively, they can show interesting results in the field.
You can feel the meaning of the fusion of reduction and acid heat in the isoelectric zone.
The chemical formula is as follows.
Cysteamine thioglycolate : HS-CH2-CH2-HN3+・-OOC-CH2-SH [molecular weight 169.34]
It can be found at a glance that this is a reducing agent which has a simple structure
consisting of cysteamine and thioglycolic acid.We can also vaguely understand that
it would be interesting to have levulinic acid here.
Let’s create something that has never been created before! This is Orange Cosme.
Adding levulinic acid
Levulinic acid, as well as elcalactone and arginine, were added to thioglycolic acid cysteamine.
With so many ingredients, the expectations of hair stylists and researchers are high.
The birth of THE ANCHOR
“THE ANCHOR” was born as a new category in the acidic region.
To be indispensable
in the future.
We’ve evolved acid heat to a slightly medicinal solution territory with the Levlimit.
THE ANCHOR reversed the process, bringing the medicinal solution closer to acid heat.
Think of it as fusion rather than evolution.Rather than changing what we have and calling it evolution,
its on-site use evolves by mixing and fusing productsfrom different categories. Although there are reducing agents
such as Spiera and GMT for acidic exclusive use, there is still a lot of potential for reduction in the acidic region.
THE ANCHOR will surely become an indispensable part of the salon menu
in the future as an isotonic zone medicinal solution.
Point
●Weakly acidic and reducible.
●Easy to use for damaged hair (especially for aging hair) due to the absence of alkali.
●The unique softness of cysteamine and the firmness of thioglycolic acid harmonize well.
●Significantly less residual odor than ordinary cysteamine products, etc.
During the research, various additional advantages were found.
The ANCHOR has two types, a mild acidity liquid 6.0 and a cream 6.0.Its most important point is mild acidity and high reduction.These two items can be used separately, but you can also mix them to adjust the viscosity and texture.THE ANCHOR is a medicinal solution, but it reacts at room temperature, exerts a reduction effect, and increases the shine and texture by applying heat.
Advantage of THE ANCHOR
In general, the acidic region is defined as a pH less than 7, but in practical terms, the acidic region is the isoelectric zone.The isoelectric zone is the range where hair is thought to be electrically stable.We consider the isoelectric zone to be between 4.5 and 6.0.So, this range of treatments does not put a burden on hair.The isoelectric point of hair changes depending on the degree of damage, so hair diagnosis is important even in the acidic regions.As it is electrically stable, it is difficult to reduce or oxidize it. It is also designed to enhance the penetration of medicinal solutions.The isoelectric zone can change the hair without disrupting its stability. This is the advantage of THE ANCHOR.
Active in the digital scene
The digital scene refers to any situation using heat, such as digital perm machines, straightening irons, dryers, Parrucchi machines, far-infrared
devices, curling irons, etc.The digital scene is not only created for THE ANCHOR, but also this word might be expressed in common in all
treatments.A scene where the heat is supplied from the outside = Think of it as a digital scene.There is no doubt that THE ANCHOR actives well in digital scenes with minimal damage.THE ANCHOR also has an acid heat effect due to containing levulinic acid.In many ways, THE ANCHOR may be called a heat-responsive medicinal solution.
Functional components of
THE ANCHOR
Levulinic acid
Levulinic acid adds high moisture capacity, shine, and softness to the hair.This component exerts even more effectiveness by applying heat.
Fiberhance
Fiberhance of the hair strengthening agent binds to the keratin that is the main component of hair and gives it strength and elasticity.The synergistic effect with
Curetein exerts a higher repairing effect.
Cholesterol [Contained in the liquid]
This is nano-emulsified fish-derived cholesterol.With nano-emulsification, lipids can penetrate deeper, and high moisture retention can be expected.
Curetein [Active keratin]
Curetein is active keratin that acts on the SS-bond of keratin in hair.It improves hair strength and inhibits the production of cysteic acid.
Various Cell Membrane Conjugate components
Nano-encapsulation of multiple lipid components efficiently repairs damaged areas inside the hair.In addition to improving break strength and water retention, inhibiting split ends and hair breakage can also be expected.
Erucalactone [contained in the cream]
Erucalactone helps repair damaged cuticles, suppresses spread, and makes hair more manageable.By applying heat, this component reacts and exerts a repair effect.
Specifications of
the medicinal solution
THE ANCHOR6.0 [common to liquid and cream]
| pH | 6.0 |
| Thio-corresponding value | 6.73％ |
| Alkali level | 0 |
THE ANCHORBS10 [common to liquid and cream]
| pH | 6.0 |
| Oxidant concentration | 10％ |
Product lineup
THE ANCHOR
Liquid 6.0
400ml
THE ANCHOR
Cream 6.0
400g
THE ANCHOR
Liquid 2
400ml
THE ANCHOR
Cream 2
400g